Michele Holt
Sandy Hook, Virginia
804-556-0772
michele@myquiltingbeehive.com

Hours by Appointment Only

Machines are buzzing and I am as busy as a bee making your quilts beautiful!

Binding Services   

Do you hate binding your quilts? Do you have trouble getting nice mitered corners? My Quilting Beehive can do it for you! 

Rates are based on the linear inch-- measure the perimeter of your quilt. A 60" x 80" quilt would be 280 linear inches (60+60+80+80)

Option 1- Full Binding Service: $.32 per linear inch
You provide the fabric, I will prepare the binding, attach it to your quilt by machine, then hand stitch it to the back of your quilt.   

Option 2- Partial Binding Service: $.20 per linear inch
You provide the fabric, I will prepare the binding and attach it to your quilt by machine.  You will hand stitch it to the back of your quilt.

Option 3- Attach Only: $.10 per linear inch
You provide the prepared binding.  I will attach it to your quilt by machine.  You will hand stitch it to the back of your quilt.
   

Need to know how to make a binding?  I wrote a handout on "Binding Basics" for the classes I teach. 
Click on the link to print out your own copy:   Binding Basics Instruction Sheet (see step by step photos below)

First, figure out how many binding strips to cut

Determine the perimeter of your quilt   2(length + width) or add the length of all four sides.
So if your quilt is 83” x 83” the perimeter is 332”

Divide the perimeter by the width of your fabric (usually about 40”)
 332/40=8.3 (round up), so this example needs 9 binding strips. By rounding up, you will have a little extra to make up for the width of the seams.

Binding strips can be cut 2 ¼ or 2 ½ inches wide.  It is a personal preference.  If you use a wider strip you can sew with a slightly wider seam while the narrower strip requires a ¼ inch seam.  The wider strip gives you more fabric to fold to the back. I like the 2 ¼” strips.

Cut enough strips for your quilt. Trim off the selvedge edges.

Next, piece the strips end to end to create one long binding strip

Lay strips right sides together at a 90 degree angle.
Decrease your stitch length for a tighter stitch.
Be sure that your diagonal is in the direction shown.
Sew a diagonal line along center of square of the overlap.

I like to chain piece.  Be careful if you are using a batik or solid where it might be hard to tell which side is the right side.

Trim off excess leaving about ¼” seam allowance. 
You can trim with scissors or a rotary cutter and ruler.
Repeat, connecting all strips end to end.
Press seams to one side.

Fold and press the binding in half

Wrong sides together, along the long edge to create a very long strip about 1 1/8 inch wide.

 Tip*** use a cardboard tube to roll up the long strip.  This a a toilet paper tube covered in fabric.  The white ribbon is long enough to hang around my neck.  I can pull out a little binding at a time while I am sewing to prevent it getting twisted and tangles

Attach your binding to your quilt
Be sure to return your stitch length to a standard length (about 2 or 2.5)
Use a ¼ inch seam ( I use a generous 1/4"... the opposite of a scant 1/4"), start in the middle of one side leaving about a foot of binding tail free.
Continue stitching until you are near the corner.

Fold the binding strip away from the quilt creating a 45 degree angle.  Finger press this fold line. 
Use a marking pencil to mark inside the fold line. Sew to this mark (you are leaving about ¼” inch un-sewn—the width of your seam allowance).
Back stitch and cut thread.

Fold binding edge up away from quilt to create a 45 degree angle in the binding.
Then fold down onto the next quilt side so the folded edge is even with the first quilt side.
There will be a triangular flap in the corner. This will give you a nice, mitered corner.

Start sewing second side ¼ inch from the quilt edge. Tip-- keep the weight of the quilt up on your table.

Repeat on all four corners. 
Stop stitching about a foot before reaching where you started sewing.

Finishing the ends

Overlap the two tail ends along the quilt edge (trim tail if needed) so the tail on the right side is on top of the tail on the left side.
Use a marking pencil or pen to mark a point near the center of the overlapping binding tails. Mark on the top layer of each strip in the same location near the center of the overlap.

Open the left side tail pulling the mark down toward you without twisting so the right side of the fabric is facing up and the mark is at the bottom edge.
Open the right side tail so the fabric is facing down and bring the mark to match up with the mark on the left.  Turn so the two tails are perpendicular (90-degree angle).

You will sew these ends together on the diagonal like you did when you pieced the binding strips together. 
Mark the sewing line—45-degree angle starting at the point you marked heading toward the other corner of the overlap
Pin along this line to check – be sure the fabric is not twisted before you sew.

Once you are sure it is not twisted, sewn on line, trim leaving ¼ inch seam allowance.
Refold and line up along edge of quilt.
Finish attaching to the quilt.

Fold back the binding at each corner.  Trim the quilt top, backing, and batting using car not to cut the stitches that are holding on the binding

Bring the folded edge of the binding to the back of the quilt, covering the stitch line created when you attached the binding. 
Hand stitch in place with thread that matches the binding fabric. 
I use a clip to hold binding in place as I start to sew.  Then. I fold the binding into place and hold with my left hand as I sew.  Take small stitches.

At the corners, fold back the miter in the opposite direction of the miter on the front to reduce bulk. Stitch a couple stitches in the mitered corner on the back and front of the corner.